Universe of learning Stitches

RAHEN · #16 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:23 PM

Zig Zag Chain Stitch

a member of the chain stitch family

Zigzag chain stitch is also known as Vandyke chain stitch. Zigzag chain stitch is a variation of chain stitch

Zigzag chain stitch is effective when sewn stitched row upon row to build up patterns for borders or as a single row.

The illustration is an example of this hand embroidery stitch used as a seam treatment on a crazy quilt block.

Work as you would chain stitch but place each loop at right angles to the previous loop to create the zigzag line.
As you enter the fabric with each loop pierce the end of the previous loop.
This will ensure that each section of the chain lies flat.

RAHEN · #17 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:27 PM

Double Herringbone Stitch (version 2)

A member of the herringbone family

This version of double herringbone stitch creates a decorative zigzag pattern.

Guide-lines may be useful to keep the stitch even.

It is useful to mark the fabric with two parallel guide-lines using a water dissolvable marker or fade out fabric marker.
First work a row of herringbone stitch as the foundation.
The second row of this stitch is also herringbone worked over the top of the foundation row and through the fabric.
As you work the foundation row stitches flatten slightly so that only the tips of the crosses in the foundation row are seen.
This version of double herringbone can also be worked in multiple rows to create a filling for an area. The rows touch each other at the tips of the crosses. Beads or French knots can be placed in the grid like pattern that forms.This is a version of double herringbone often found decorating the seams in crazy quilting.

RAHEN · #18 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:30 PM

This is part of a sampler which was stitched on 26 count linen. Stitches used include wave stitch, Casalquidi stitch, cast on stitch, stem stitch, buttonhole , bullion knots, French knots, straight stitch, rows of threaded running stich

RAHEN · #19 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:37 PM

Casalguidi Stitch

Casalguidi stitch although known as a single stitch is actually associated with a form of Italian pulled fabric embroidery worked traditionally on linen. It is a type of needlework which originated in a particular village of in Italy. The term Castelguidi is sometimes used to refer to this type of embroidery but since it comes from the village Casalguidi and the village has never been referred to as Castelguidi I think that the term Casalguidi is correct. I would like to thank Dr. Alessandro Chiti from Casalguidi for clarifying the use of this term for me.
Its appeal is that it is a style of needlework that contrasts heavy textured areas against a background of pulled work usually four-sided stitch. This surface stitch produces elements which are in high relief. Other stitches used in this style of embroidery are detached buttonhole,buttonhole bars, double buttonhole bars, bullion stitches and woven bars. The stitch is actually a variation on padded raised stem stitch band. Traditionally bullion knots were often placed over corners and ends of this distinctive stitch.
The illustration is very much a contemporary usage of this stitch. The stitch it self is however. is worked in a traditional form.
This high relief stitch is sewn with the fabric stretched in an embroidery hoop or frame.

First couch a bunch of threads along the line to be worked this becomes the base padding. Cover the base padding in satin stitch.
Next lay a row of foundation stitches at right angles to the padding stitches spaced at 5mm (1/4 of an inch) intervals.

Curved lines need the foundation stitches to radiate around the curve. Do not make these foundation stitches too tight as they become more taut as you sew stem stitch over them.

Using a tapestry needle work stem stitch over the foundation bars.
Apart from the start and end of each row you do not take the thread through the fabric.
Work stem stitch in one direction only.

As you complete each row gently pack it down with your tapestry needle. Avoid splitting the thread of the foundation stitches otherwise you will not be able to pack the stem stitches properly.

RAHEN · #20 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:39 PM

Stem Stitch

Stem stitch is also known as crewel stitch, stalk stitch and South Kensington stitch. Stem stitch is often worked to outline a shape

Work from left to right taking small regular stitches with a forwards and backwards motion along the line of the design. The thread is kept to the right of the needle after picking up a small piece of material. This means that it always emerges from the left side of the previous stitch.
If the thread is worked to the left of the needle, the stitch produced is slightly different, and is known as outline stitch.

RAHEN · #21 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:41 PM

Outline Stitch

Although outline stitch is as its name suggests mainly used for outlining shapes it is an extremely versatile stitch. It can be worked in single or multiple rows and follows complex linear details and curves well.
Outline stitch has a long history. It was used during the Middle Ages and is one of the stitches found on the Bayeux Tapestry where it is worked in combination with couched infilling.

Outline stitch creates a neat, twisted line which twists in the reverse direction to a line of stem stitches. It is worked in a similar manner to stem stitch. The difference is that the thread always lies to the left of the needle. If the thread lies to the right the stitch becomes stem stitch. Work from left to right taking small regular stitches with a forwards and backwards motion along the line of the design. The thread is kept to the left of the needle after picking up a small piece of material.

RAHEN · #22 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:42 PM

Whipped Stem Stitch

A version of Stem Stitch

Whipped stem stitch creates a raised heavier line than ordinary stem stitch. It is useful if you need to create a bold line particularly on curves.
A foundation row of stem stitch is first worked. The second thread is whipped over the line without picking up any ground fabric.
A contrasting colour thread can be used for the whipping. Use a blunt-ended tapestry needle for the whipping to avoid splitting the stitches on the foundation row.

RAHEN · #23 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:44 PM

Buttonhole Wheel

a member of the buttonhole family

Buttonhole wheel is also known as wheel stitch and buttonhole rings. This stitch is buttonhole stitch worked in a circular shape.
Sew this stitch on a firm foundation fabric. It is often used to form motifs of small floral sprays.
In pulled and drawn embroidery if worked on a loosely woven fabric under slight tension the fabric threads are pulled by the stitching and a neat circular hole forms at the centre. The size of this hole can be increased with the aid of a stiletto.

To work a buttonhole wheel you simply make buttonhole stitches in a circle, passing each vertical stitch through the same space in the centre.
If the edges of your wheel edge flips up it is probably because you are not spacing the stitches close enough together.
Button hole wheel can also be worked in halves and quarters in various arrangements.
It is a useful stitch often seen employed contemporary crazy quilting and patchwork.

RAHEN · #24 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:46 PM

Threaded Running Stitch

A variety of running stitch

Threaded running stitch is an attractive threaded line, which follows curves well.

To work this stitch simply pass the needle over and under the fabric to create a line of running stitch

Lace or thread the stitches with a contrasting colour or weight of thread.

With this stitch, take care to lace and not to pick up any of the fabric. Use a tapestry needle to avoid splitting the foundation running stitch.

RAHEN · #25 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:47 PM

This bulk of stitches is stitched on 26 count linen used arrangements of straight stitch, the top row has a row of half algerian stitch and the bottom row is back stitch. Half way up the sampler is four sided cross stitch. Threads are silk, wool and cotton hand dyed by me.

RAHEN · #26 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:50 PM

This sampler stitched on hand painted felt with a combination of hand and machine stitching. It was a little experiment. Scraps of fabric, net, beads and some brass disks and have been incorporated. Stitches used are french knots, Bullion knots, whipped spider wheel. Threads are silk, wool and cotton hand dyed by me and metallic embroidery threads.

RAHEN · #27 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:52 PM

Whipped Spiders Wheel

Whipped spider's wheel is also known as raised spider's web wheel, ribbed wheel and back stitched spider's web.
A Whipped spider's wheel creates a ribbed, circular shape. This stitch can be worked on an even or uneven number of spokes.
Work a single fly stitch then two straight stitches of the same length each side of the fly stitch tail so that you end up with a circle which has five 'spokes'. These form the foundation stitches.

Bring the thread out at the centre of the wheel and slide the needle under two threads and whip the first spoke. Move to the next stitch by sliding the needle once again, under two threads (but only one thread around the wheel). This action can be described as making a spiral of back stitches over the spokes. The needle does not pass through the fabric.

Use a tapestry needle to avoid splitting the foundation stitches. Repeat this action, whipping each spoke as you progress around the wheel until the circle is filled.

You can also do this on foundations that are one third of the number of spokes or on half circles to create fan like shell shapes. Instead of going around in circles in a constant motion you turn at the end of each row and go back and forwards until the shape is filled.

Whipped spider's wheel can be used alone as an accent stitch of colour or texture, or can be scattered over a shape to make a powdering

RAHEN · #28 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:53 PM

This sampler is a doodle cloth mainly of variations of chain stitches worked on hand painted linen. It was a little experiment. Stitches used include oyster stitch, twisted chain, Rossette stitch, detached chain, interlaced chain, and double chain. Threads are silk, wool and cotton hand dyed by me.

RAHEN · #29 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:57 PM

Oyster Stitch

a member of the chain stitch family

Oyster stitch is a member of the chain stitch family and although it looks complex is not difficult to work.

You start Oyster stitch with a single Rossette stitch. As a variation of twisted chain stitch you commence by bringing the thread to the front of the fabric, insert the needle, take a small stitch and wrap the needle as you would a twisted chain.

Take the needle through the fabric and pull until the loop lies flat but not tight on the fabric. Pass the needle under the right-hand top thread above the loop that has formed. Slide the needle through without picking up the foundation fabric. At this stage you have created a single Rosette chain stitch.

To turn it into Oyster stitch, insert the needle at the top and slide it under the knot, so that the needle exists the cloth at the base of he knot.
Loop the thread under the needle and pull the needle through.
Making a small tie stitch take the needle to the back of the fabric. You have just made a chain stitch around the first Rossette chain.
You can use this stitch as you would a detached chain stitch.
It can be used as buds in floral motifs, or worked in a circle with the stitches pointing outwards to create flowers.
If you want to use oyster stitch in a line instead of using a small tie stitch as the last step move to creating the next twisted chain stitch as the base for the first knot.

Oyster stitch can also be used in combination with other stitches such as fly stitch or spaced at the spines of feathered stitch.
It has a highly textured appearance so sprinklings of this stitch in contemporary work produces a nobly relief particularly when worked in a thread with a good twist or a fine ribbon.

RAHEN · #30 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 10:59 PM

Twisted Chain Stitch

a member of the chain stitch family

Twisted chain stitch has a hand embroidery stitch which has slightly textured appearance.
It is a variation of chain stitch and can be effectively introduced in many types of needlework projects.

To work twisted chain bring the needle up through the fabric and hold the thread with the left thumb. Insert the needle to the left of where it emerges from the fabric. This point can be varied depending upon how wide you want the 'spike' of the chain. The wider the gap the larger the spike.

Take the needle through the fabric bringing the point of the needle out a short space along the line to be stitched.

Cross the thread over the needle, then wrap the thread under the needle point and pull the needle through the fabric.

The stitch that you have created is a twisted chain. It is ideal for linear details as it follows curve with ease.

Worked with large long spikes this stitch can have an organic quality. A large variety of threads can be used from the finest thread to silk ribbon, the size of the stitch will depend on the weight of the thread used.

Twisted chain stitch can also be worked in the same way detached chains worked with each loop being anchored by a small straight stitch. It can be worked as single stitches or arranged in a circle to form floral motifs. In the illustration above the stitch is worked on a crazy quilt block in rayon ribbon topped off with a row of bugle beads. It is a stitch that is also suitable for silk ribbon embroidery.